October 6, 1905 - Friday
When we came on deck this morning it looked as though the fairies had been at work overnight. Fakirs of every description were on deck and some of their displays were very pretty. There were thousands of postcards from 3 for 5 sen to 24 sen apiece, some very pretty. I bought two for 10 cents, one for each of our Grandmas. Dorothy picked out the one for 'Nano' and 'OBaugh', two little girls in a flower garden. The one for Grandma Hudson was two little girls in a rickshaw.
There were the cutest little sampans and rickshaws, perfect copies of the real article. I must take some home with me. There were belt buckles, buttons, charms, souvenir spoons, Satsuma ware, toy, dolls, and in fact everything one could find in a bazaar. It would take a millionaire to buy everything we saw. Prices were fluctuating according to how the prospective customer was sized up. Several tailors came with samples, cuts, etc. and I am crazy for a suit. We are going over this afternoon to the shops.
A laundryman took the clothes ashore - his card read: H Oda, Laundry. Repairs effected and buttons renewed. No. 14 Nichome, Ashibikieho, Yokohama. This is a sample of English as she is Japped. We went ashore early in the morning and came back at Tiffin time having some wonderful experiences.
The rickshaw man charged him 5 cents for an hour's ride. The crowd all joshed him about being so heavy, it cost quadruple for him to ride. The children spent a very enjoyable morning looking at the pretty things on deck. It rained all day.When we came on deck this morning it looked as though the fairies had been at work overnight. Fakirs of every description were on deck and some of their displays were very pretty. There were thousands of postcards from 3 for 5 sen to 24 sen apiece, some very pretty. I bought two for 10 cents, one for each of our Grandmas. Dorothy picked out the one for 'Nano' and 'OBaugh', two little girls in a flower garden. The one for Grandma Hudson was two little girls in a rickshaw.
There were the cutest little sampans and rickshaws, perfect copies of the real article. I must take some home with me. There were belt buckles, buttons, charms, souvenir spoons, Satsuma ware, toy, dolls, and in fact everything one could find in a bazaar. It would take a millionaire to buy everything we saw. Prices were fluctuating according to how the prospective customer was sized up. Several tailors came with samples, cuts, etc. and I am crazy for a suit. We are going over this afternoon to the shops.
A laundryman took the clothes ashore - his card read: H Oda, Laundry. Repairs effected and buttons renewed. No. 14 Nichome, Ashibikieho, Yokohama. This is a sample of English as she is Japped. We went ashore early in the morning and came back at Tiffin time having some wonderful experiences.
After Tiffin, Mr. and Mrs. Nelis, Mrs. Wilson, Will and I went ashore in the 2:00 launch. Mrs. Pumea, Miss Griffy and several others of the fast bunch also went on the same launch and we had some edifying conversation. They are a coarse bunch.
We had hardly landed when a dozen rickshaw men surrounded us. We made a deal for 20 sen an hour and started out. I was so sorry it rained for we had to keep the top of our carriage up all the time and could see very little of what we passed. The streets are narrow and packed as hard as brick. There are no sidewalks and when it rains it's awful. The boys trotted along and made good time. It is astonishing what heavy loads they pull and how fast they get over the ground. There were lots of umbrellas out and all the people wore wooden shoes. These consist of a flat board with two strips nailed on the underside to raise the foot from the ground. A strap across the instep holds them on the foot. These are their rainy day shoes. When the weather is fair they wear sandals made of straw or else go barefoot. Many of the coolies wore raincoats made of straw and look like animated straw stacks. As we went along, my steed, an extremely ugly old fellow kept pointing out points of interest. He was very proud of his English vocabulary consisting of perhaps a dozen words.
We went first to the shop of Ah Long and looked over his suiting's etc but decided his prices were too high so did not order anything. He has some beautiful silks and embroideries. His help is all Chinese. He showed his order book in which was an order for a suit for Miss Alice Roosevelt. After we left his shop we rode around over the city for an hour before returning to the Latsba or wharf. All the shops are small but there are hundreds of them. The hotels are very imposing buildings. We passed the U.S. Consulate and many other interesting buildings. The Japanese are very proud of the Yokohama Specie Bank. Almost every other sign was Money Exchanges. We get one yen for each U.S. half dollar or our money is worth just twice as much as at home.
Everyone goes bareheaded, carrying an umbrella to protect the head from the sunshine, as many people go barefooted. There were not many people on the streets on account of the rain. The kimono does not look very much like what we call a kimono at home. The sleeve forms a pocket and is a regular storehouse. The men and women in the middle class dress very much alike both wearing kimonos. The coolie class do not wear any more than the law allows. Mr. Nelis says all some of them wear is a g-string. Dr. Dopp told me I could not find a dirtier town than Yokohama in the rain and I think he is surely right. We took the six o'clock launch back to the boat well satisfied with our first glimpse of Japan.
The children had been good but were glad to see us. Yei had given them their dinners. About six-thirty the boat moved inside the breakwater and took the Minnesota's place. These boats are exactly alike for all outward appearances and are surely big.
October 7, 1905 ~ Saturday
Today the clouds broke and the sun came out beautifully. Mrs. Wilson, Mrs. Nelis, Yei and Marcise all went to Tokyo and the boat seems deserted. We watched the cargo being discharged this morning and it is an interesting sight. The winches all run by Japanese and the loads lifted are enormous. We saw a load of flour go into the bay and watched them fish it out a sack at a time with a boat hook. There are nineteen hatches and things are certainly moving this morning. It is amusing to hear Smith sweat at the Japanese monkeys. He might just as well save his breath for all the attentions they take of him. Everyone is supposed to keep off the lower deck as there is danger of something falling and smashing you down there. Japs are as thick as flies in the molasses at times. Will is out with his Kodak somewhere. There are several ships in the harbor and sampans simply cover the water. We had the upper deck pretty much to ourselves this morning as nearly everyone is on shore. The English nursemaid had her charges out on deck and Marjorie fell in love with the baby, a boy of six months. He is a fat little fellow and so good natured.
After Tiffin, we took the children ashore and gave them their first ride in a rickshaw and how they did enjoy it. The sunshine had evidently brought the children out and there were hundreds of them in the streets. A good many of the older ones with a baby ‘slung’ on his or her back. It made me think of that saying in the bible about the voice of children playing in the street. They are odd little people. The boys have their heads shave, all but a tiny patch at the crown of the head, the girls have theirs combed back from the forehead and twisted into a knot at the top of the head. The eyes are small and both hair and eyes are as black as coals. One little girl made me think so much of Helen Hungate.
We went down into the older part of town and saw some interesting sights. The streets are very narrow and the buildings are just as close as it is possible to build them. No alleys here. At frequent intervals is a public hydrant and there seemed to be always someone drawing water. They are very clean always scrubbing and cleaning. The shops are one after the other for miles. The shopkeepers all seem to specialize. We did not see any general stores as in America. Most of the work is done sitting flat on the floor on mats. The merchants live with their families in the shops and where they stow themselves is more than I can see.
We went to a temple and the priest in charge almost had a fit because we stepped on the steps with our shoes on. The people going in are obliged to take off their shoes so we stayed outside. The steps and all the woodwork is polished until it shines.
White children are evidently infrequent in this part of the town and we had a crowd around us all of the time. Will stopped to make some pictures and about fifty children crowded around in two minutes. They push right against one and are so curious. Japan seems to be a regular children’s paradise. They are such good natured, happy-go-lucky creatures. I never say any quarreling. We me a school just dismissed. Teachers and scholars carried books tied up in a flat package wrapped in a cloth. I thought they would mob us for a little while. I presume we are as curious to them as they are to us.
We visited several photograph galleries and were very nicely treated. One characteristic of the Japanese is his extreme politeness. They cope the French in this as in a great many other things. The photographic work is not of a very high grade but the color work is fine.
Mrs. Roosevelt and a party in an automobile passed us this afternoon. They leave on the Siberia next Friday for America. Mrs. Nelis says her father thinks everything she does is just right. He is strict with the other children but Alice is his first wife’s only child and she is just a little spoiled. Mr. Nevis thinks she and her step mother do not just agree and that is why she spends so much time traveling. He thinks however that “Allie Roosevelt” is a fine girl as is also Mrs. Theo. No. 2.
I tried to buy an umbrella for the girls but could not get one reasonable at all.
At four we went to the harbor and were soon back on the Dakota. The kiddies were tired but perfectly satisfied with their afternoon outing. Dorothy looks so white compared to the Japanese baby and her eyes are so big and blue. I told Yei that Marjorie was my Japanese baby and she said “no, eyes big –Japanese eyes small, Margie eyes pretty, mine no pretty”. She liked ‘Dodo” so much and plays with ere more than with the others. Dorothy likes her too. Both children want Japanese dollies to take home with them. The boat seems deserted there are so many people ashore. Most of them like ourselves come back to eat and sleep. Miss Anderson has developed a case of typhoid fever and there is talk of taking her to the hospital.
The babies went to sleep early and Will and Mr. Nelis went ashore to see the town by night. I took a bath, shampooed my hair and was just getting ready to turn in when Marcise opened the door. The people who went to Tokyo to stay over Sunday came back disgusted. They had trouble with rickshaw men, sampan men, shopkeepers and everyone else and were glad to get back safely to the Dakota. Will and Mr. Nelis came home about ten and I heard a jubilant voice down the hall say “They came back after all”.
October 8, 2005 ~ Sunday
We got up late in fact were the last one into breakfast. Meals are served earlier than formerly. It is so warm we had to put on summer clothes. I wore my pink dress into Tiffin. This is truly sunny Japan. Work goes on just the same as every day. We find there is no Sunday in Japan, they keep no day holy. After Tiffin, Will and Dr. Cole went out with their Kodaks and Mr. and Mrs. Nelis, Mrs. Wilson and I went shopping. We saw some of the most beautiful embroideries in the windows of the shops. That seems to be the main article of manufacture here and the work is beautiful. We stopped at a bird store and saw hundreds of the prettiest canaries in cages that were works of art. Mrs. Wilson bought a cage with some white mice for Marcise.
When you go into a shop of any pretensions here you are met by the proprietor with a smile, chairs are brought and cigarettes offered you and you feel more like you were making a formal call than that you are shopping. We were at Sobeys, No. 10, Benti Dosi for a long time and think we got some bargains. I got a Japanese crepe for 40¢ that I would pay $1.50 for at home. Mrs. Wilson got a suit skirt, coat, and waist of pongee silk, heavily embroidered in Dragon design for 45 yen. It was simply beautiful. Mrs. Nelis ordered one like it and I want one so badly. We got some little umbrellas for the children for 20¢ apiece that were very cute. I got a book that will be fine for notes of my travels for 12¢. We looked at everything but did not buy much. Walking was fine as we saved rickshaw fare. We were accosted at every turn “rickshaw?” The coolies will follow for blocks hoping you will change your mind and ride a while. Mr. Nelis is more fun than a box of monkeys. He kept us laughing all afternoon at his witticisms. All the coolies are John to him and his is always joshing them.
October 9, 1905 ~ Monday
Will was out into the country yesterday and brought back such a glowing account that we decided to have a picnic today but when we looked out is was so cloudy that we decided a picnic would be apt to be turned into an umbrella party so decided not to go. Everyone in 2nd Cabin went ashore except the children and I. Mr. Cusick, the young man in intermediate was transferred to the Doric and will start on to Manila tomorrow.
Will came home mad as a wet hen. A sampan man held him up and had followed him clear down the hall to the room. They have legitimate robbery down to a fine point. In fact, all of the Japanese seem to think it is perfectly honest to rob an American. They are as a race the biggest grafters in the world. My opinion of the whole Japanese race have undergone a decided change and not for the better either. They make a big bluff but when the trick is called cannot make good. The sampan man got out in a hurry when a show of force was used. It is fun to see them run. It is a penal offense to strike a coolie and they get pretty obnoxious sometimes. There is no consular court here so I am of the opinion that an American would fare badly in any trouble with them. At home we think the Japanese are a wonderful people but the more I see of them the less use I have for them. Will thinks in them he has found the origin of the American Indian and there is truly some reason for believing this. Some of the lower class women look just like squaw. Their moral sense is lower than an Indian’s ever dared to be, and they seem to have no idea of decency or privacy. Some of the lighters are fitted up with living apartments and there will be about forty naked dirty children playing around and the sights we see sometimes are simply unbelievable. None of the lower classes wear any more clothes than absolutely necessary and some of the women have their kimonos open to the waist. They are a dirty loathsome class; simply animals who can talk. The upper classes of course are not like this but this class who live on the water are the lowest of all, and the tourist sees this lower class more than any others. We have found a few who seem to be all right. Goto Sobey is one that seems honest. He wears American clothes and speaks good English. His prices are fixed, not much bargaining in his place. The Yamato N. 35 Benti Dori is a good place to trade also. Will ordered a tuxedo from AhLong. It is of beautiful cloth and if it fits well will be a bargain at 35 yen. He had a pair of shoes made for 7 yen. Everyone is buying by the wholesale. Wish I had a few million to invest. The babies and I stayed home as usual today while the others all went ashore.
October 10, 1905 ~ Wednesday
Not much doing. The 3rd steward posted a new schedule for meals – breakfast at 6 to 8, Tiffin 12 to 1, Dinner 5 to 6 and if you are not at the table at those hours you will get nothing to eat so the boy told us. Will raised a row about it and got the dinner hour changed to 5:30 to 6:30. The 3rd steward was mad. He says we have to serve meals to suit the crew. Will told him we don’t belong to the crew but are paying our passage over and had to be treated as passengers. The Company are doing all they can to make the passengers take their meals ashore but they all come back for meals. Rates at the hotels are exorbitant. Mrs. Nelis, Mrs. Wilson and I were up on deck today when a woman selling postal cards came on board. She stopped and talked to us for a long time. She is quite an interesting old woman. Was in Chicago during the World’s Fair and likes America and Americans very well. We discussed the social problem pretty fully and learned a great deal about Japanese beliefs and customs. Their belief is in a threefold existence. As you live in the first world so will you be rewarded here, as you live here so will you be rewarded in the next life. That is why some people have so many troubles in this world; they are being punished for former sins. Also, this explains why some people who seem wicked here prosper so; they are being rewarded for being good in their former life. Some of the people who were good in a former life do evil here because it is so easy but they will be punished in the next world. The Geishiwara is a queer institution. Some of the girls here, we were told, are here because they wish to be; others have been sold or rented for a certain time to pay a debt for a father or other relative. We are going over to visit Nog as it is called before we leave Yokohama. This woman talks very good English and seems very intelligent. Went to Mission school for her education. Was one of the Amahs for Mr. Sobeys’ children when they were small. Each child of the wealthy class has an amah for himself. So if there are four children there would be four amahs. Mr. Sobey lost his wife years ago and he married a Geisha girl, a young giddy thing, so this woman told us. She seemed to have a good opinion of Mr. Sobey and his first wife but does not think much of his second wife.
Will came home early and we decided this to be the best evening to see the Geishawara, so a party of us consisting of Mrs. Wilson, Mr. and Mrs. Nelis, Will and I started out. At the head of the stairs we bumped into Mrs. Edwards who asked to go with us and of course we could not refuse to take her but felt that her place was with her husband.
First we went up to Mr. Sobey’s store, then to a shoe shop and walked over a good part of the Bentidori. Mrs. Nelis wanted us to give up our trip because Mrs. Edwards was with us but the men said no, if she wants to butt in she must go where we go so I braced her on the subject and told her where we were going. She was wild to go too so we got rickshaws and started for Nectarine No. 9. There is a regular card issued advertising the place. Among other things they advertise to cater to European customers. It was quite a long way out but we enjoyed our ride through the streets brightly lighted. Each rickshaw man carries a Japanese lantern after it gets dark and they present a picturesque sight coming and going.
The building is a beautiful one and the entrance is a blaze of electric lights. The first thing you notice on entering is an old man sitting cross-legged on the floor in front of whom is a large book in which all customers must register. I fancy there are a good many John Smiths and Henry Jones there as it seems to me a man would have to be pretty brazen to write his own name in such a book. After registering he must pass a severe medical examination before being allowed to proceed.
The girls are in little rooms, three or more together, sitting on the floor, sewing, working or talking. They had tiny little tables before them on which to lay their work. They are very much painted and their hair is done up in fantastic shape. The kimonos are beautifully embroidered and the clothes are of the nicest materials. I cannot say I thought the girls pretty yet they were very attractive in a way. They look clean and wholesome anyway, and were laughing and talking and seemed contented and happy. Probably making remarks about us, who knows?
In the bedrooms we were shown the block of wood which serves as a pillow for the Japanese maiden. Hair dressing is an expensive luxury so the hair is only combed once or twice a week and this block keeps it from getting mussed. It is oily and greasy and does not appeal to me as being at all pretty after it is combed. The hangings and coverlets were lovely, embroidery everywhere. The furniture is the finest that money can buy and all the furnishings are worthy of a palace. I can understand the saying “Gilded Vice” now as never before. Some of the rooms are furnished in American or European style throughout, others in Oriental style but all were sumptuous in their appointments. In the parlor is a music box and Mr. Nelis dropped a nickel in the slot so we had some real American music. In this room was one of the largest mirrors I have ever seen.
An old lady has charge of everything and showed us through the kitchen, dining room and whole house. Everything is scrupulously clean. The floors are scrubbed until they are clean enough to eat off of. In the hall a girl met us with a tray of bouquets of tuberoses she was selling at 25¢apiece to help the soldiers. Of course we had to buy. In the hall at frequent intervals are braziers with kettles of water always boiling There are a few rugs but the floors are for the most bare of coverings. In the halls the floors are covered with matinees. Mrs. Edwards wanted to know what they had the tea kettle boiling for. She also kept wanting the girls to dance. I thought Will and Mr. Nelis would go straight up at some of the breaks she made. She shows her youth.
The government had charge of all the houses and they are closely inspected quite frequently. A girl can stay here for any length of time and when she leaves is considered none the worse morally for her experience providing she was sent here to pay for a debt. A queer system of morals it seems to us Americans. We went from No. 9 past several houses but did not stop at any. In one place the girls are in a room that looks like a cage and can be observed by all who care to gaze at them. They seem quiet, modest persons and one cannot imagine they are living such lives.
We went from this district all over town. Saw a gambling game that Will said made him think of ‘seven, come eleven’. The way the manager was spieling away was a caution. We visited two bazaars where everything one can possibly think of was offered for sale. Everything is out in sight so all you need to do is pick out what you want and ask the price of it. Prices went sky high when we asked for them. We bought two wooden rice bowls for the children. Mrs. Nelis bought a lot of Christmas presents. We visited several shops, an auction, and everything else we could find before we went down the Bund and around the Hatobo. The buildings around the Bund are immense. The hotels being especially fine – the Oriental Palace and Club Hotels are especially fine, the rates correspond to their appearance being from five to fifteen yen a day. Miss Roosevelt is at the Oriental Palace. Will met her at the foot of the Temple of a Hundred Steps and she spoke as friendly as though they had met each other years ago. He feels much flattered over the fact of her knowing him.
We started back about ten and had not even got on the launch when Mr. Helvie began joshing about our bouquets. Their odor was awful and as I went up the gang plank mine went overboard. We are wondering if Mrs. Edwards will be wearing her tomorrow. After we got home we went to the officers table and had lunch, bread and butter, pickles and tea. It tasted awfully good too, the first pickles since we left Seattle.
Yei said the babies, all three, cried. She carried Dorothy a long time until she finally went to sleep. I don’t think I will leave them anymore.
Not much doing. The 3rd steward posted a new schedule for meals – breakfast at 6 to 8, Tiffin 12 to 1, Dinner 5 to 6 and if you are not at the table at those hours you will get nothing to eat so the boy told us. Will raised a row about it and got the dinner hour changed to 5:30 to 6:30. The 3rd steward was mad. He says we have to serve meals to suit the crew. Will told him we don’t belong to the crew but are paying our passage over and had to be treated as passengers. The Company are doing all they can to make the passengers take their meals ashore but they all come back for meals. Rates at the hotels are exorbitant. Mrs. Nelis, Mrs. Wilson and I were up on deck today when a woman selling postal cards came on board. She stopped and talked to us for a long time. She is quite an interesting old woman. Was in Chicago during the World’s Fair and likes America and Americans very well. We discussed the social problem pretty fully and learned a great deal about Japanese beliefs and customs. Their belief is in a threefold existence. As you live in the first world so will you be rewarded here, as you live here so will you be rewarded in the next life. That is why some people have so many troubles in this world; they are being punished for former sins. Also, this explains why some people who seem wicked here prosper so; they are being rewarded for being good in their former life. Some of the people who were good in a former life do evil here because it is so easy but they will be punished in the next world. The Geishiwara is a queer institution. Some of the girls here, we were told, are here because they wish to be; others have been sold or rented for a certain time to pay a debt for a father or other relative. We are going over to visit Nog as it is called before we leave Yokohama. This woman talks very good English and seems very intelligent. Went to Mission school for her education. Was one of the Amahs for Mr. Sobeys’ children when they were small. Each child of the wealthy class has an amah for himself. So if there are four children there would be four amahs. Mr. Sobey lost his wife years ago and he married a Geisha girl, a young giddy thing, so this woman told us. She seemed to have a good opinion of Mr. Sobey and his first wife but does not think much of his second wife.
Will came home early and we decided this to be the best evening to see the Geishawara, so a party of us consisting of Mrs. Wilson, Mr. and Mrs. Nelis, Will and I started out. At the head of the stairs we bumped into Mrs. Edwards who asked to go with us and of course we could not refuse to take her but felt that her place was with her husband.
First we went up to Mr. Sobey’s store, then to a shoe shop and walked over a good part of the Bentidori. Mrs. Nelis wanted us to give up our trip because Mrs. Edwards was with us but the men said no, if she wants to butt in she must go where we go so I braced her on the subject and told her where we were going. She was wild to go too so we got rickshaws and started for Nectarine No. 9. There is a regular card issued advertising the place. Among other things they advertise to cater to European customers. It was quite a long way out but we enjoyed our ride through the streets brightly lighted. Each rickshaw man carries a Japanese lantern after it gets dark and they present a picturesque sight coming and going.
The building is a beautiful one and the entrance is a blaze of electric lights. The first thing you notice on entering is an old man sitting cross-legged on the floor in front of whom is a large book in which all customers must register. I fancy there are a good many John Smiths and Henry Jones there as it seems to me a man would have to be pretty brazen to write his own name in such a book. After registering he must pass a severe medical examination before being allowed to proceed.
The girls are in little rooms, three or more together, sitting on the floor, sewing, working or talking. They had tiny little tables before them on which to lay their work. They are very much painted and their hair is done up in fantastic shape. The kimonos are beautifully embroidered and the clothes are of the nicest materials. I cannot say I thought the girls pretty yet they were very attractive in a way. They look clean and wholesome anyway, and were laughing and talking and seemed contented and happy. Probably making remarks about us, who knows?
In the bedrooms we were shown the block of wood which serves as a pillow for the Japanese maiden. Hair dressing is an expensive luxury so the hair is only combed once or twice a week and this block keeps it from getting mussed. It is oily and greasy and does not appeal to me as being at all pretty after it is combed. The hangings and coverlets were lovely, embroidery everywhere. The furniture is the finest that money can buy and all the furnishings are worthy of a palace. I can understand the saying “Gilded Vice” now as never before. Some of the rooms are furnished in American or European style throughout, others in Oriental style but all were sumptuous in their appointments. In the parlor is a music box and Mr. Nelis dropped a nickel in the slot so we had some real American music. In this room was one of the largest mirrors I have ever seen.
An old lady has charge of everything and showed us through the kitchen, dining room and whole house. Everything is scrupulously clean. The floors are scrubbed until they are clean enough to eat off of. In the hall a girl met us with a tray of bouquets of tuberoses she was selling at 25¢apiece to help the soldiers. Of course we had to buy. In the hall at frequent intervals are braziers with kettles of water always boiling There are a few rugs but the floors are for the most bare of coverings. In the halls the floors are covered with matinees. Mrs. Edwards wanted to know what they had the tea kettle boiling for. She also kept wanting the girls to dance. I thought Will and Mr. Nelis would go straight up at some of the breaks she made. She shows her youth.
The government had charge of all the houses and they are closely inspected quite frequently. A girl can stay here for any length of time and when she leaves is considered none the worse morally for her experience providing she was sent here to pay for a debt. A queer system of morals it seems to us Americans. We went from No. 9 past several houses but did not stop at any. In one place the girls are in a room that looks like a cage and can be observed by all who care to gaze at them. They seem quiet, modest persons and one cannot imagine they are living such lives.
We went from this district all over town. Saw a gambling game that Will said made him think of ‘seven, come eleven’. The way the manager was spieling away was a caution. We visited two bazaars where everything one can possibly think of was offered for sale. Everything is out in sight so all you need to do is pick out what you want and ask the price of it. Prices went sky high when we asked for them. We bought two wooden rice bowls for the children. Mrs. Nelis bought a lot of Christmas presents. We visited several shops, an auction, and everything else we could find before we went down the Bund and around the Hatobo. The buildings around the Bund are immense. The hotels being especially fine – the Oriental Palace and Club Hotels are especially fine, the rates correspond to their appearance being from five to fifteen yen a day. Miss Roosevelt is at the Oriental Palace. Will met her at the foot of the Temple of a Hundred Steps and she spoke as friendly as though they had met each other years ago. He feels much flattered over the fact of her knowing him.
We started back about ten and had not even got on the launch when Mr. Helvie began joshing about our bouquets. Their odor was awful and as I went up the gang plank mine went overboard. We are wondering if Mrs. Edwards will be wearing her tomorrow. After we got home we went to the officers table and had lunch, bread and butter, pickles and tea. It tasted awfully good too, the first pickles since we left Seattle.
Yei said the babies, all three, cried. She carried Dorothy a long time until she finally went to sleep. I don’t think I will leave them anymore.
October 11, 1905 ~ Wednesday
It is so warm that it is uncomfortable in our rooms so we stay on deck most of the time. The children have full possession of the play room and do enjoy themselves. All the children from upstairs are not much in evidence. Most of them have gone ashore I think. I have not seen the little boy who talked to us when we were coming into the bay since that time. I think they have gone ashore to stay. The English fleet came in this morning and presented a pretty sight, with flags flying and banners waving. The Admiral is here and the city is in gala dress. It is also Chrysanthemum Day but I have not seen many flowers. Our idea of Chrysanthemum Day is as erroneousness as are great many of our ideas concerning the Japanese.
We went ashore at two o’clock and were just in time to be in the crowd lined up at the Latoba to meet the English Admiral and his staff. There were dozens of cameras in line and Will got his out and lined up with the rest of them. Mrs. Wilson and I got tired of waiting and with Yei and the children started up the street. We had only started when we saw the visitors landing at the back of the Latoba and I said “There they are now. Will has missed his picture after all”. It was so queer the way things were managed. A carriage was waiting at the jetty but the Admiral and his party landed clear on the other side and started up the street on foot. The carriage started after them and picked them up half a block up the street. The streets were lined for blocks with hundreds of men and women and children in gala dress. The middle of the street was entirely free of people and I never saw a crowd so orderly and well behaved. So different from an American crowd who would have been howling themselves hoarse and jostling each other in great shape. There were yards and yards of bunting and flags by the hundreds. It made me think of the fourth of July only there was no noise. I never saw such a quiet crowd. We walked down quite a ways and got tangled up in the crowd so took a rickshaw to Sobey’s store and waited for Will there. Dorothy had her little blue umbrella and created a great deal of excitement. She seems to make a hit wherever she goes and is pointed out as the American baby. The rickshaw boys vie with each other in getting to haul the American children. I presume because they are not heavy more than for any other reasons.
At four we went to the Latoba to meet Mr. and Mrs. Nelis. Then we all went out in the foreign quarters. It is beautiful there with lovely houses and well kept yards. One place where we stopped to have our pictures made reminded me of our English country homes such as you read about in some of the Charlotte Bronte novels. Will and a little Japanese boy make an exposure on the crowd of us and he acted as if he were the greatest boy in Yokohama. Mr. and Mrs. Nelis had a date at the tailors and had to leave us. Mrs. Wilson made a picture of our family and then we went on to the end of the driveway. I enjoyed it all so much and would like to have a home like some of these.
There were lots of carriages out – most of them with livery. One was striking. The woman riding was dressed all in white and the coachman and footmen wore white livery and everything was lovely. The carriage men all wear Japanese costume. Most of the horses are small and have a vicious look about them. I saw a few beautiful big horses.
As we came back down the hill Mrs. Wilson’s rickshaw man could not hold the rickshaw back and she almost had an accident. Her coolie was a small, young looking fellow and could not hold much of a load. The view from the top of the hill over the bay was a fine one. There were so many ships in the harbor and so many flags flying that it presented a pretty sight.
We met Miss Griffy in a carriage but she did not recognize us. We rode down the Bund awhile and then went to the Latoba to wait for the six o’clock launch but found one going back right away so got home early. The Captain was aboard so the launch had made a special trip.
It is so warm that it is uncomfortable in our rooms so we stay on deck most of the time. The children have full possession of the play room and do enjoy themselves. All the children from upstairs are not much in evidence. Most of them have gone ashore I think. I have not seen the little boy who talked to us when we were coming into the bay since that time. I think they have gone ashore to stay. The English fleet came in this morning and presented a pretty sight, with flags flying and banners waving. The Admiral is here and the city is in gala dress. It is also Chrysanthemum Day but I have not seen many flowers. Our idea of Chrysanthemum Day is as erroneousness as are great many of our ideas concerning the Japanese.
We went ashore at two o’clock and were just in time to be in the crowd lined up at the Latoba to meet the English Admiral and his staff. There were dozens of cameras in line and Will got his out and lined up with the rest of them. Mrs. Wilson and I got tired of waiting and with Yei and the children started up the street. We had only started when we saw the visitors landing at the back of the Latoba and I said “There they are now. Will has missed his picture after all”. It was so queer the way things were managed. A carriage was waiting at the jetty but the Admiral and his party landed clear on the other side and started up the street on foot. The carriage started after them and picked them up half a block up the street. The streets were lined for blocks with hundreds of men and women and children in gala dress. The middle of the street was entirely free of people and I never saw a crowd so orderly and well behaved. So different from an American crowd who would have been howling themselves hoarse and jostling each other in great shape. There were yards and yards of bunting and flags by the hundreds. It made me think of the fourth of July only there was no noise. I never saw such a quiet crowd. We walked down quite a ways and got tangled up in the crowd so took a rickshaw to Sobey’s store and waited for Will there. Dorothy had her little blue umbrella and created a great deal of excitement. She seems to make a hit wherever she goes and is pointed out as the American baby. The rickshaw boys vie with each other in getting to haul the American children. I presume because they are not heavy more than for any other reasons.
At four we went to the Latoba to meet Mr. and Mrs. Nelis. Then we all went out in the foreign quarters. It is beautiful there with lovely houses and well kept yards. One place where we stopped to have our pictures made reminded me of our English country homes such as you read about in some of the Charlotte Bronte novels. Will and a little Japanese boy make an exposure on the crowd of us and he acted as if he were the greatest boy in Yokohama. Mr. and Mrs. Nelis had a date at the tailors and had to leave us. Mrs. Wilson made a picture of our family and then we went on to the end of the driveway. I enjoyed it all so much and would like to have a home like some of these.
There were lots of carriages out – most of them with livery. One was striking. The woman riding was dressed all in white and the coachman and footmen wore white livery and everything was lovely. The carriage men all wear Japanese costume. Most of the horses are small and have a vicious look about them. I saw a few beautiful big horses.
As we came back down the hill Mrs. Wilson’s rickshaw man could not hold the rickshaw back and she almost had an accident. Her coolie was a small, young looking fellow and could not hold much of a load. The view from the top of the hill over the bay was a fine one. There were so many ships in the harbor and so many flags flying that it presented a pretty sight.
We met Miss Griffy in a carriage but she did not recognize us. We rode down the Bund awhile and then went to the Latoba to wait for the six o’clock launch but found one going back right away so got home early. The Captain was aboard so the launch had made a special trip.
October 12, 1905 ~Thursday
Will, Dr. Cole and Mr. Lee went to Tokyo at eight o’clock this morning, before the rest of us had our breakfast. We spent most of the day up on deck. Mrs. Nelis, Mrs. Wilson and I gossiping and the children playing. We were sitting talking when a missionary came and asked us if we would please move as the sound of our voices disturbed his afternoon siesta. He is the fellow who has the $500 suite, is taking the phonograph and records back and has a luxurious time generally, bleeding the poor suckers at home to pay for it all. This is self denial with a vengeance. No foreign missions for me, not by a long shot.
Everybody’s Magazine. Mr. Nelis says he would go first to the foreign board and ask how much they will pay him to keep mum and then say “Ney, nay, Pauline” and proceed. He says it is the best paying graft he ever saw and he is going to see if he can’t work it next time he crosses the Pacific. Mrs. Nelis says “Joe!” but he likes to tease her.
Mrs. Wilson told me this morning that Mrs. Edwards had been talking confidentially to her and Mrs. Nelis and had said some of the funniest things. I thought I would hurt myself laughing at some things she told me. She was running away from her husband the other night when she went over town with us. I want to tell Will so badly but before I was told I was made to promise faithfully to keep still until we get to Shanghai.
Will go home at one a.m. having a glorious time.
Will, Dr. Cole and Mr. Lee went to Tokyo at eight o’clock this morning, before the rest of us had our breakfast. We spent most of the day up on deck. Mrs. Nelis, Mrs. Wilson and I gossiping and the children playing. We were sitting talking when a missionary came and asked us if we would please move as the sound of our voices disturbed his afternoon siesta. He is the fellow who has the $500 suite, is taking the phonograph and records back and has a luxurious time generally, bleeding the poor suckers at home to pay for it all. This is self denial with a vengeance. No foreign missions for me, not by a long shot.
Everybody’s Magazine. Mr. Nelis says he would go first to the foreign board and ask how much they will pay him to keep mum and then say “Ney, nay, Pauline” and proceed. He says it is the best paying graft he ever saw and he is going to see if he can’t work it next time he crosses the Pacific. Mrs. Nelis says “Joe!” but he likes to tease her.
Mrs. Wilson told me this morning that Mrs. Edwards had been talking confidentially to her and Mrs. Nelis and had said some of the funniest things. I thought I would hurt myself laughing at some things she told me. She was running away from her husband the other night when she went over town with us. I want to tell Will so badly but before I was told I was made to promise faithfully to keep still until we get to Shanghai.
Will go home at one a.m. having a glorious time.
October 13, 1905 ~ Friday
The last day in port. We leave tomorrow for Kobe having spent a very delightful ten days here. The day is lovely and Mrs. Wilson and I are going to take the children ashore for awhile. Yei is very anxious to get home.
We had a long walk and the children saw lots of things to interest them, among other things a little kitty that was cute as could be, also a little dog about as big as a pint of soap after a hard day’s washing. One of the tiniest I ever saw. Dorothy’s little fat legs gave out and I had to carry her. Mrs. W does not like to stroll along like I do but walks so fast the children can hardly keep up with her. We have not begun to see all the interesting things here yet. I would like to live here awhile.
We stopped at several stores and saw so many pretty things. I bought a lovely shirtwaist for 7 yen, 50 sen; another white lawn embroidered pattern for 2 yen. I also got some very pretty collars.
At the Yamato one of Mrs. Wilson’s Hong Kong friends happened in. She never offered to introduce me but acted as if she were ashamed to be seen with me. All the way home she lamented the fact that this woman saw her when she was not dressed up. I never knew anyone who seemed to think so much of dress as she does.
I want to get so many things but as we don’t know what we will find in Shanghai am waiting until we get there to spend what little money I have. Mrs. Wilson keeps saying we will need full evening clothes and all that but then I think I know about as much about society and social observances as she does. She talks like I had never been out in company at all and I get tired of it sometimes.
I will not get to Tokyo but Will has told me a great deal about it so I do not care very much. It is so hard to go anywhere with the babies. I am pretty well satisfied with what I have seen in Yokohama so will not quarrel about going anyplace further.
Mrs. Nelis has noticed how Mrs. Wilson has thrown it to me and does everything to help me out. She takes Dorothy to her room and keeps her for me. Dorothy thinks Mrs. “Neenus” is just about right. This afternoon Miss Roosevelt and party start for home on the Siberia on a record making run. Friday the 13th they surely are not superstitious. Will was over to the Siberia when the party went aboard but did not have his Kodak so did not get any pictures. He likes Miss Roosevelt’s appearance and Mr. Nelis says “Allie is only a true American girl and she is all right.” When the boat pulled out of the breakwater there was a great show made, whistles blowing, flags flying, an exciting time. The Stewardess was so excited she hardly knew what she was doing and the Chief Steward actually forgot to look cross.
At Tokyo, Will visited the Imperial Museum, a complete museum of curiosities, minerals, Japanese curios, etc. Went just as close to the Imperial Palace as he could get, visited several parks, and had a good time generally. The day he was there 3,000 British sailors and bluejackets were being entertained and as he expressed it, there were things going on. There was a 30% discount given them for everything they chose to buy. Tokyo is flat and uninteresting as far as topography goes but as a city is very interesting. The streets are wide, and there is a fine street railway service but owing to the fact that all signs are in Japanese it does a foreigner no good. The rickshaw men were just a little worse than in Yokohama. The population of Tokyo is about 2 million including what few foreigners are there. Coming home the train was filled with a drunken, fighting, howling mob of bluejackets. About two thirds of the visitors had taken advantages of the discount offered them and were gloriously drunk.
The last day in port. We leave tomorrow for Kobe having spent a very delightful ten days here. The day is lovely and Mrs. Wilson and I are going to take the children ashore for awhile. Yei is very anxious to get home.
We had a long walk and the children saw lots of things to interest them, among other things a little kitty that was cute as could be, also a little dog about as big as a pint of soap after a hard day’s washing. One of the tiniest I ever saw. Dorothy’s little fat legs gave out and I had to carry her. Mrs. W does not like to stroll along like I do but walks so fast the children can hardly keep up with her. We have not begun to see all the interesting things here yet. I would like to live here awhile.
We stopped at several stores and saw so many pretty things. I bought a lovely shirtwaist for 7 yen, 50 sen; another white lawn embroidered pattern for 2 yen. I also got some very pretty collars.
At the Yamato one of Mrs. Wilson’s Hong Kong friends happened in. She never offered to introduce me but acted as if she were ashamed to be seen with me. All the way home she lamented the fact that this woman saw her when she was not dressed up. I never knew anyone who seemed to think so much of dress as she does.
I want to get so many things but as we don’t know what we will find in Shanghai am waiting until we get there to spend what little money I have. Mrs. Wilson keeps saying we will need full evening clothes and all that but then I think I know about as much about society and social observances as she does. She talks like I had never been out in company at all and I get tired of it sometimes.
I will not get to Tokyo but Will has told me a great deal about it so I do not care very much. It is so hard to go anywhere with the babies. I am pretty well satisfied with what I have seen in Yokohama so will not quarrel about going anyplace further.
Mrs. Nelis has noticed how Mrs. Wilson has thrown it to me and does everything to help me out. She takes Dorothy to her room and keeps her for me. Dorothy thinks Mrs. “Neenus” is just about right. This afternoon Miss Roosevelt and party start for home on the Siberia on a record making run. Friday the 13th they surely are not superstitious. Will was over to the Siberia when the party went aboard but did not have his Kodak so did not get any pictures. He likes Miss Roosevelt’s appearance and Mr. Nelis says “Allie is only a true American girl and she is all right.” When the boat pulled out of the breakwater there was a great show made, whistles blowing, flags flying, an exciting time. The Stewardess was so excited she hardly knew what she was doing and the Chief Steward actually forgot to look cross.
At Tokyo, Will visited the Imperial Museum, a complete museum of curiosities, minerals, Japanese curios, etc. Went just as close to the Imperial Palace as he could get, visited several parks, and had a good time generally. The day he was there 3,000 British sailors and bluejackets were being entertained and as he expressed it, there were things going on. There was a 30% discount given them for everything they chose to buy. Tokyo is flat and uninteresting as far as topography goes but as a city is very interesting. The streets are wide, and there is a fine street railway service but owing to the fact that all signs are in Japanese it does a foreigner no good. The rickshaw men were just a little worse than in Yokohama. The population of Tokyo is about 2 million including what few foreigners are there. Coming home the train was filled with a drunken, fighting, howling mob of bluejackets. About two thirds of the visitors had taken advantages of the discount offered them and were gloriously drunk.
October 14, 1905 ~ Saturday
All is confusion this morning gathering ready to sail. Mrs. Nelis says “Doesn’t it seem strange to start on a journey and not have to pack.” I like her so much and she is more fun than a box of monkeys. AhLong came and brought Will’s suit and it is a beauty for 35 yen. He had a whole bunch of suits so I imagine he has done a good business with the Dakota passengers.
Mr. Sobey was aboard and showed Mrs. Nelis how to do Japanese embroidery. When he left he shook hands with all of us. So many shop men were aboard settling accounts. The laundry came and was only 3 cents a piece. They do not charge as in America and count the number of pieces, whether they are sheets or handkerchiefs and charge 6 sen apiece for them. Cheap washing I think.
There are a number of new 1st Cabin passengers – mostly Chinese. Mrs. Zimmer has been changed to 2nd Cabin. She seems quite a pleasant old lady. Parts of the Russian peace commission are aboard. One man and his wife failed to get his trunks aboard in time and a lighter followed the ship and loaded all the time they were getting under way.
I have spent a good deal of my time lately loafing with the English nurse girl upstairs. She has her hands full with two kids. Their mother has turned them over to her completely.
At 12 we start for Kobe. The bay is shallow here and I saw for the first time the quartermaster heaving the lead. The lead is a bar of iron weight some 12 or 15 pounds. The quartermaster swings it around his head and lets it go, holding the line that is attached to it in his hand. Then he swings out to the Captain “An half seven” I do not know how much this meant but from what I noticed it is not very deep. We will be in sight of land all the way to Kobe. It is so rough along the coast here that I would hate to be out in a storm. It looks dangerous.
Today it is cloudy and not very pleasant but we had a lovely sunny week in Yokohama. Will made lots of negatives and had lots of experiences. One was especially funny. One day he was out with Dr. Cole making pictures when he heard “Very big fat man, face all same so” pointing to the pictures of a broad faced Dutchman. Another day a girl came up and said “What you doing?” in very good English. He told her he was taking pictures and added “Let me take you picture.” “Not on your life!” she cried and was off like a shot. American slang, like everything else American, seems to have penetrated to the Orient. Miss Anderson was taken to the hospital in Yokohama with a well developed case of typhoid fever. Mrs. Wilson is worrying for fear the rest of us will get it but I don’t think there is any danger. We have tried to find out about the water taken aboard at Yokohama but can get no satisfaction about it. The Dr. on board is a regular fake. He says don’t let any patients die on his hands but gets them ashore as quick as possible. I would hate to get sick and have him to look after me. Part of Miss Anderson’s luggage went on and part of it was taken ashore with her. Mrs. Wilson says she thinks a good bath would do more good than anything else as she doesn’t believe Miss A has had one since she left Seattle. I don’t see how some people can be so filthy.
We had green vegetables since we got to Yokohama and the menu sounds better but when you get to the table you don’t get any more to eat.
Mrs. Wilson says I must not do any work in China but one of the crew says “That is all rot. You do as you please there as you would anywhere.” He was congratulating Will on the fact that we would not have to eat after a Chinaman all the time since I came along. I am independent enough to do as I please in the matter anyway. Mrs. Wilson acts like I did not know anything about how to act in swell society but I think I have moved in as good circles as she ever did. Mrs. Nelis “Don’t pay any attention to what she says. It is better to take care of your children than turn them over to an Amah about whose character you know nothing.” She is very sensible and a lovely little woman. Joe thinks so anyway.
All is confusion this morning gathering ready to sail. Mrs. Nelis says “Doesn’t it seem strange to start on a journey and not have to pack.” I like her so much and she is more fun than a box of monkeys. AhLong came and brought Will’s suit and it is a beauty for 35 yen. He had a whole bunch of suits so I imagine he has done a good business with the Dakota passengers.
Mr. Sobey was aboard and showed Mrs. Nelis how to do Japanese embroidery. When he left he shook hands with all of us. So many shop men were aboard settling accounts. The laundry came and was only 3 cents a piece. They do not charge as in America and count the number of pieces, whether they are sheets or handkerchiefs and charge 6 sen apiece for them. Cheap washing I think.
There are a number of new 1st Cabin passengers – mostly Chinese. Mrs. Zimmer has been changed to 2nd Cabin. She seems quite a pleasant old lady. Parts of the Russian peace commission are aboard. One man and his wife failed to get his trunks aboard in time and a lighter followed the ship and loaded all the time they were getting under way.
I have spent a good deal of my time lately loafing with the English nurse girl upstairs. She has her hands full with two kids. Their mother has turned them over to her completely.
At 12 we start for Kobe. The bay is shallow here and I saw for the first time the quartermaster heaving the lead. The lead is a bar of iron weight some 12 or 15 pounds. The quartermaster swings it around his head and lets it go, holding the line that is attached to it in his hand. Then he swings out to the Captain “An half seven” I do not know how much this meant but from what I noticed it is not very deep. We will be in sight of land all the way to Kobe. It is so rough along the coast here that I would hate to be out in a storm. It looks dangerous.
Today it is cloudy and not very pleasant but we had a lovely sunny week in Yokohama. Will made lots of negatives and had lots of experiences. One was especially funny. One day he was out with Dr. Cole making pictures when he heard “Very big fat man, face all same so” pointing to the pictures of a broad faced Dutchman. Another day a girl came up and said “What you doing?” in very good English. He told her he was taking pictures and added “Let me take you picture.” “Not on your life!” she cried and was off like a shot. American slang, like everything else American, seems to have penetrated to the Orient. Miss Anderson was taken to the hospital in Yokohama with a well developed case of typhoid fever. Mrs. Wilson is worrying for fear the rest of us will get it but I don’t think there is any danger. We have tried to find out about the water taken aboard at Yokohama but can get no satisfaction about it. The Dr. on board is a regular fake. He says don’t let any patients die on his hands but gets them ashore as quick as possible. I would hate to get sick and have him to look after me. Part of Miss Anderson’s luggage went on and part of it was taken ashore with her. Mrs. Wilson says she thinks a good bath would do more good than anything else as she doesn’t believe Miss A has had one since she left Seattle. I don’t see how some people can be so filthy.
We had green vegetables since we got to Yokohama and the menu sounds better but when you get to the table you don’t get any more to eat.
Mrs. Wilson says I must not do any work in China but one of the crew says “That is all rot. You do as you please there as you would anywhere.” He was congratulating Will on the fact that we would not have to eat after a Chinaman all the time since I came along. I am independent enough to do as I please in the matter anyway. Mrs. Wilson acts like I did not know anything about how to act in swell society but I think I have moved in as good circles as she ever did. Mrs. Nelis “Don’t pay any attention to what she says. It is better to take care of your children than turn them over to an Amah about whose character you know nothing.” She is very sensible and a lovely little woman. Joe thinks so anyway.
October 15, 1905 ~ Sunday
Will has been developing film all morning. Mr. James brought him seven spools and several of the others brought him some developing to do. I spent most of the day reading in the dining room. We passed several big ships. The way is along a rough coast with lots of islands. We reached Kobe about 4 o’clock and had to be examined by the Japanese physicians.
Kobe is very pretty as seen from the ship. It is long and narrow and the hills rise abruptly for many feet directly back of the town. The reflection of the hundreds of electric lights at night is beautiful. Mrs. Zimmer has been put in Miss Anderson’s room. I would not care to be in it if I were in her place. It may be all right – they fumigated after a fashion.
Will has been developing film all morning. Mr. James brought him seven spools and several of the others brought him some developing to do. I spent most of the day reading in the dining room. We passed several big ships. The way is along a rough coast with lots of islands. We reached Kobe about 4 o’clock and had to be examined by the Japanese physicians.
Kobe is very pretty as seen from the ship. It is long and narrow and the hills rise abruptly for many feet directly back of the town. The reflection of the hundreds of electric lights at night is beautiful. Mrs. Zimmer has been put in Miss Anderson’s room. I would not care to be in it if I were in her place. It may be all right – they fumigated after a fashion.
October 16, 1905 ~ Monday
It is horrid outside today. When it is nice in Japan it is lovely, but when it rains it is simply awful. The regulation lot of grafters were on deck this morning. They had some lovely Satsuma ware. No one seems to be buying. They did all of that at Yokohama.
A lighter loader with flat cars turned turtle this morning and everything went to the bottom. No one seemed to worry about it any and the boat floated around bottom side up all day. Marjorie can’t get over talking about it.
Everyone but the babies and I went ashore this afternoon. We slept, played and had a fine time generally. It was a relief to get rid of Marcise for a little while. She gets on one’s nerves with her fidgeting. The babies played so nicely and I rested so much. The crowd came home at six all completely tired out. Mrs. Nelis said everyone had been cross all day.
It is horrid outside today. When it is nice in Japan it is lovely, but when it rains it is simply awful. The regulation lot of grafters were on deck this morning. They had some lovely Satsuma ware. No one seems to be buying. They did all of that at Yokohama.
A lighter loader with flat cars turned turtle this morning and everything went to the bottom. No one seemed to worry about it any and the boat floated around bottom side up all day. Marjorie can’t get over talking about it.
Everyone but the babies and I went ashore this afternoon. We slept, played and had a fine time generally. It was a relief to get rid of Marcise for a little while. She gets on one’s nerves with her fidgeting. The babies played so nicely and I rested so much. The crowd came home at six all completely tired out. Mrs. Nelis said everyone had been cross all day.
October 17, 1905 ~ Tuesday
Will went ashore with his Kodak early in the morning and we stayed at home and went through the usual routine. Mrs. Wilson, Mr. and Mrs. Nelis, Dr. Cole, Mr. Lee and Mrs. Zimmer all went up to Osaki but Will decided he would not go with them. They are laughing at Mrs. Zimmer. This morning she went up to Dr. Cole and said “I’ve got two sons who are doctors and I think you ought to help me out.” Dr. Cole said all right, and asked her to go along with the party. She gave him ten yen for her expenses and told him to spend it, she did not want to e bothered about paying expenses. She evidently has plenty of money and has been paying the telephone boy’s expenses to take her around sightseeing. Marcise was left with Yei and we did not have a quiet moment all day.
In the daily paper I noticed the death of Sir Henry Irving chronicled.
I wanted to go up to Uno Boki Falls so much but as it has rained every minute will get to stay at home. Will went up this afternoon and told us about it but that is not like seeing it firsthand. He was much impressed with the way they “hand it” to foreigners up there. He had to pay 40 cents for a cup of tea, an apple and slice of cake but they asked $1.50 for it at first. Two Japs who were there paid 40 sen for their refreshments so he decided his was worth no more. It is a beautiful place up there from all accounts. I spent most of the afternoon chatting with the nursemaid. I have not learned her name except that the little boy calls her Lily. Mr. Barrison also likes to talk to her, and came up and stayed with us a long time. All the children like him.
The crowd came home tired but happy having secured some wonderful bargains. Will brought me a pretty Satsuma belt buckle. Will saw them making some of the Satsuma ware and was very impressed with it. One vase took three months to decorate - was worth about 100 yen. Men soon wear out their lives working in these places but life is cheap in the Orient. Mrs. Nelis got some lovely embroidery at Osaki. She said the crowd got out of patience with Mrs. Wilson. She is just like a spoiled child and fretted because her rickshaw was not as pretty as someone else’s. She would not go to the temple with them and acted childish all day long.
Marcise has enough new playthings to start a toy shop. I am glad my babies are satisfied with the little we can give them and I hope they will always be such good children as they are now. I did not get ashore at Kobe at all but I presume it is much like Yokohama.
Will went ashore with his Kodak early in the morning and we stayed at home and went through the usual routine. Mrs. Wilson, Mr. and Mrs. Nelis, Dr. Cole, Mr. Lee and Mrs. Zimmer all went up to Osaki but Will decided he would not go with them. They are laughing at Mrs. Zimmer. This morning she went up to Dr. Cole and said “I’ve got two sons who are doctors and I think you ought to help me out.” Dr. Cole said all right, and asked her to go along with the party. She gave him ten yen for her expenses and told him to spend it, she did not want to e bothered about paying expenses. She evidently has plenty of money and has been paying the telephone boy’s expenses to take her around sightseeing. Marcise was left with Yei and we did not have a quiet moment all day.
In the daily paper I noticed the death of Sir Henry Irving chronicled.
I wanted to go up to Uno Boki Falls so much but as it has rained every minute will get to stay at home. Will went up this afternoon and told us about it but that is not like seeing it firsthand. He was much impressed with the way they “hand it” to foreigners up there. He had to pay 40 cents for a cup of tea, an apple and slice of cake but they asked $1.50 for it at first. Two Japs who were there paid 40 sen for their refreshments so he decided his was worth no more. It is a beautiful place up there from all accounts. I spent most of the afternoon chatting with the nursemaid. I have not learned her name except that the little boy calls her Lily. Mr. Barrison also likes to talk to her, and came up and stayed with us a long time. All the children like him.
The crowd came home tired but happy having secured some wonderful bargains. Will brought me a pretty Satsuma belt buckle. Will saw them making some of the Satsuma ware and was very impressed with it. One vase took three months to decorate - was worth about 100 yen. Men soon wear out their lives working in these places but life is cheap in the Orient. Mrs. Nelis got some lovely embroidery at Osaki. She said the crowd got out of patience with Mrs. Wilson. She is just like a spoiled child and fretted because her rickshaw was not as pretty as someone else’s. She would not go to the temple with them and acted childish all day long.
Marcise has enough new playthings to start a toy shop. I am glad my babies are satisfied with the little we can give them and I hope they will always be such good children as they are now. I did not get ashore at Kobe at all but I presume it is much like Yokohama.
October 18, 1905 ~ Wednesday
As the start for Nagasaki was made at ten p.m. few of us saw it. We started through the Inland Sea of Japan sometime in the night and the view when we first went up on deck this morning was fine. The channel is very narrow while on either side are innumerable islands. Some are alone and in the distance resemble straw stacks; others are in groups and make me think of the plant known as hens and chicks. One large one with a lot of little ones around it. There is an endless variety in the groupings, each one a little different from all the others. They seem to rise abruptly out of the sea and are islands with verdure. Some of these islands are from 800 to 1000 feet high but most of them are quite low. Every inch of available land is under cultivation and the tiny patches of rice and vegetables present a pleasing contrast to the native trees that cover the inaccessible parts of the land. Little villages are scattered all along the coast and boats, positively hundreds of them, of all sorts from sampans to three masted schooners were met coming in. We also passed a number of steamers, among them a German passenger boat that saluted us, and a Japanese Red Cross hospital boat.
At Moji there is tons of coal waiting for ships. This is a great shipping point in Japan, probably more coal being sent from here than any place except Nagasaki.
Will has been making negatives all the way in and he got permission of the Chief Officer Roberts to go up on the flying bridge to make some negatives from there. He and I went up and had just got started to work when we received orders from the Captain to get down and we promptly got down!
We passed two Japanese transports that were disabled in the late war and had been run in here before they sunk. Only the smokestacks and the tops of the spars and masts were visible. The children called them drowned ships and Marcise cried because she was afraid the Detroit might drown too. We passed over some historic water during the day, among other places that where the Battle of Tsushima took place.
About four we reached the Straits of Shimonoseki and stopped and whistled and whistled. I never found out just what this signaling meant, probably for a clear passage as the straits are very narrow and it seems as though a big boat like the Dakota could hardly get through.
On either side the view is wonderfully pretty and to me this has been the best day of our whole journey. Everyone has been out on deck most of the day. The children have enjoyed it so much. All the water around the Japanese coast is heavily mined and it is not safe to go through without a pilot. We took one aboard at Kobe and will keep him until we reach Shanghai.
As we came to the straits everyone was wondering how we would get through as there seemed no passage. Mr. Nelis said we would have to get out and walk. But as we proceeded a way was opened for us so we got through safely in to China Sea about five o’clock. Up to this time the sea had been smooth as glass but now we struck a cross sea which proceeded to shake us up considerably.
Will and I went to the stern of the ship and watched the track that the ship was making through the sea. This is so queer to me, a track on water. For hours after a big ship has passed you can see her track. We crossed one just before we reached Yokohama and I wondered what it could be.
A whole day had been spent on deck as no one wanted to miss the beauty that we were passing. We had a beautiful sunset as a fitting close to the day. We have had several such in Japan but I missed seeing the sunset on Mt. Fujiyama.
After supper the boat slowed down as we could not go into Nagasaki until daylight.
Mrs. Nelis came and took Dodo to her room. She was getting ready for bed and had her shoes and stockings off and her little bare feet were so cute. She recited pieces for Mrs. Nelis and one Mr. Nelis likes especially is:
“I got a ‘ittle’ toe
I got a ‘ittle’ finger
When I get ‘is’ big
I going to hab a beau.”
The babies have been very good and have not been near as much trouble as I thought they would be. Everyone seems to like them and I try to keep them from getting forward and bold.
Mrs. Baxter, a cousin of the Quartermaster, came on board at Kobe and Mrs. Wilson is trying to fraternize with her. She seems very pleasant but is disgusted with things upstairs so stays on the lower deck most of the time.
October 19, 1905 ~ Thursday
About eight the boy came and told us the doctors were coming but as the babies were not dressed we did not go out to the dining room but waited for them to hunt us up. Dr. Lapp growled but what do we care. After the doctor’s visit the boat was moved in as close to shore as possible and the coaling of the ship began. This is one of the interesting sights of the Journey. Temporary gangways are put up from the coaling scows to the deck of the steamer. On these men, women and children take their places and the fun begins. Coal is put in baskets, perhaps 30 pounds in each one, and passed up the line a la bucket brigade at a fire. It is astonishing how fast the baskets go up the line and we were told that this is the fastest method of coaling known. A ship can coal at Nagasaki quicker than at any other port in the world.
The whole ship is covered with coal dust; even the upper decks are not clean. The coalers are in all conditions of dress, none of them wear very much. Most of them have a rag tied around their heads to keep the coal dust from their hair I presume. A few of the women have babies on their backs and there are scores of children scattered over the scows. They seem happy and keep up a continual chatter just like a lot of monkeys. They climb like monkeys too.
We went ashore for a couple hours but did not see much of the town. Times seem very hard here and the people seem more serious and depressed than at Yokohama. So many of the soldiers and sailors went from here. The whole town seemed to be out coaling the ship and the streets were almost deserted. The children were not at all plentiful and those we saw looked hungry and ragged.
We bought some Japanese slippers and some silk flags. Everything is much dearer than anyplace else in Japan we stopped. The rickshaw men are so persistent. We took one for the children but Will and I walked.
We were in one of the hotels for a few minutes and it is a swell place. Will was not allowed to take his camera ashore so he is sore at the town. We rode back to the ship in a sampan and this was a novel experience. It cost us 5 sen apiece or 20 sen for the family. Dorothy says she likes to ride in the little boat. We got to the ship just as the launch came in and we almost got swamped
The view from the ship is beautiful. Nagasaki is the prettiest place we have seen. The city seems to be built on terraces and there are some swell houses and public buildings. No pictures are allowed to be made in the harbor so we missed some fine views. The police are very officious and Mr. Lee was told if he did not want his camera taken he had better put it away. He was picked off twice about his Kodak. Will did not take his out but borrowed one and ‘stole’ some snaps of the coaling of the ship. Yei went home early in the morning and while we were ashore we met Mrs. Wilson and Mrs. Nelis. They said they were going to Yei’s house but never asked any of us to come along. I wanted to make the babies picture but there is no show now.
The grafters are the worst ever. They start by asking four times what anything is worth, then coming down until you make your own terms. I bought a belt buckle for 50 sen that they first asked 2 yen50 for. We bought some cute little charms for 20 sen apiece, also two souvenir spoons at 50 sen apiece. Their goods are not as nice as those at Yokohama - much of it dirty and mussed. The Satsuma and other ware is beautiful. Some vases for 35 yen were dreams.
After tiffin we went up on the promenade deck and even here could not escape the grafters. Mrs. Wilson came home at noon with a lot of presents and a glowing report of Japanese hospitality. About four Yei came and brought her family consisting of mother, brother, wife and baby, sister, husband and her own niece. The babies are clean but so dark. Yei’s mother has her teeth blacked, a sign in former times of a married woman. The sister, Youi, is 18 years old, tall and slender for a Japanese girl. I would like to get her to look after my babies for me. Yei’s brother is especially cordial and it was fun to see how proud Yei is of her standing. She showed ‘Dodo’ off and asked her to kiss her cheek and then they all laughed. After Will refused to take out his camera to make the picture for Yei, Mrs. Wilson got very indignant and had Mr. Lee try to make a picture. It was so dark I am afraid he did not get much of a picture. Marcise brought home a dog but as they asked $10 to take it to Hong Kong Mrs. Wilson gave (?) it to the carpenter. Marcise cried all evening about it.
About five the boat started to get out before more than half of the coal heavers had gone ashore. They keep unloading coolies until we got up full speed. It was fun to see them scramble off into the sampans. The Captain has been criticized a good deal about the way he has run things. He is a German and will not be told anything. This is his first trip on the Pacific and although everyone respects his knowledge of navigation, yet they feel has not made a success of this trip. The 2nd Steward said he had made sixteen trips across the pond. Most of the crew has made several trips across before this one.
It was almost dark when we got started and the view of the town with all of its lights was very pretty. The nursemaid and I were together most of the afternoon. She is tired of her job. The family is going to Manila but she says she thinks she will try to get a place in Hong Kong with an English family.
As the start for Nagasaki was made at ten p.m. few of us saw it. We started through the Inland Sea of Japan sometime in the night and the view when we first went up on deck this morning was fine. The channel is very narrow while on either side are innumerable islands. Some are alone and in the distance resemble straw stacks; others are in groups and make me think of the plant known as hens and chicks. One large one with a lot of little ones around it. There is an endless variety in the groupings, each one a little different from all the others. They seem to rise abruptly out of the sea and are islands with verdure. Some of these islands are from 800 to 1000 feet high but most of them are quite low. Every inch of available land is under cultivation and the tiny patches of rice and vegetables present a pleasing contrast to the native trees that cover the inaccessible parts of the land. Little villages are scattered all along the coast and boats, positively hundreds of them, of all sorts from sampans to three masted schooners were met coming in. We also passed a number of steamers, among them a German passenger boat that saluted us, and a Japanese Red Cross hospital boat.
At Moji there is tons of coal waiting for ships. This is a great shipping point in Japan, probably more coal being sent from here than any place except Nagasaki.
Will has been making negatives all the way in and he got permission of the Chief Officer Roberts to go up on the flying bridge to make some negatives from there. He and I went up and had just got started to work when we received orders from the Captain to get down and we promptly got down!
We passed two Japanese transports that were disabled in the late war and had been run in here before they sunk. Only the smokestacks and the tops of the spars and masts were visible. The children called them drowned ships and Marcise cried because she was afraid the Detroit might drown too. We passed over some historic water during the day, among other places that where the Battle of Tsushima took place.
About four we reached the Straits of Shimonoseki and stopped and whistled and whistled. I never found out just what this signaling meant, probably for a clear passage as the straits are very narrow and it seems as though a big boat like the Dakota could hardly get through.
On either side the view is wonderfully pretty and to me this has been the best day of our whole journey. Everyone has been out on deck most of the day. The children have enjoyed it so much. All the water around the Japanese coast is heavily mined and it is not safe to go through without a pilot. We took one aboard at Kobe and will keep him until we reach Shanghai.
As we came to the straits everyone was wondering how we would get through as there seemed no passage. Mr. Nelis said we would have to get out and walk. But as we proceeded a way was opened for us so we got through safely in to China Sea about five o’clock. Up to this time the sea had been smooth as glass but now we struck a cross sea which proceeded to shake us up considerably.
Will and I went to the stern of the ship and watched the track that the ship was making through the sea. This is so queer to me, a track on water. For hours after a big ship has passed you can see her track. We crossed one just before we reached Yokohama and I wondered what it could be.
A whole day had been spent on deck as no one wanted to miss the beauty that we were passing. We had a beautiful sunset as a fitting close to the day. We have had several such in Japan but I missed seeing the sunset on Mt. Fujiyama.
After supper the boat slowed down as we could not go into Nagasaki until daylight.
Mrs. Nelis came and took Dodo to her room. She was getting ready for bed and had her shoes and stockings off and her little bare feet were so cute. She recited pieces for Mrs. Nelis and one Mr. Nelis likes especially is:
“I got a ‘ittle’ toe
I got a ‘ittle’ finger
When I get ‘is’ big
I going to hab a beau.”
The babies have been very good and have not been near as much trouble as I thought they would be. Everyone seems to like them and I try to keep them from getting forward and bold.
Mrs. Baxter, a cousin of the Quartermaster, came on board at Kobe and Mrs. Wilson is trying to fraternize with her. She seems very pleasant but is disgusted with things upstairs so stays on the lower deck most of the time.
October 19, 1905 ~ Thursday
About eight the boy came and told us the doctors were coming but as the babies were not dressed we did not go out to the dining room but waited for them to hunt us up. Dr. Lapp growled but what do we care. After the doctor’s visit the boat was moved in as close to shore as possible and the coaling of the ship began. This is one of the interesting sights of the Journey. Temporary gangways are put up from the coaling scows to the deck of the steamer. On these men, women and children take their places and the fun begins. Coal is put in baskets, perhaps 30 pounds in each one, and passed up the line a la bucket brigade at a fire. It is astonishing how fast the baskets go up the line and we were told that this is the fastest method of coaling known. A ship can coal at Nagasaki quicker than at any other port in the world.
The whole ship is covered with coal dust; even the upper decks are not clean. The coalers are in all conditions of dress, none of them wear very much. Most of them have a rag tied around their heads to keep the coal dust from their hair I presume. A few of the women have babies on their backs and there are scores of children scattered over the scows. They seem happy and keep up a continual chatter just like a lot of monkeys. They climb like monkeys too.
We went ashore for a couple hours but did not see much of the town. Times seem very hard here and the people seem more serious and depressed than at Yokohama. So many of the soldiers and sailors went from here. The whole town seemed to be out coaling the ship and the streets were almost deserted. The children were not at all plentiful and those we saw looked hungry and ragged.
We bought some Japanese slippers and some silk flags. Everything is much dearer than anyplace else in Japan we stopped. The rickshaw men are so persistent. We took one for the children but Will and I walked.
We were in one of the hotels for a few minutes and it is a swell place. Will was not allowed to take his camera ashore so he is sore at the town. We rode back to the ship in a sampan and this was a novel experience. It cost us 5 sen apiece or 20 sen for the family. Dorothy says she likes to ride in the little boat. We got to the ship just as the launch came in and we almost got swamped
The view from the ship is beautiful. Nagasaki is the prettiest place we have seen. The city seems to be built on terraces and there are some swell houses and public buildings. No pictures are allowed to be made in the harbor so we missed some fine views. The police are very officious and Mr. Lee was told if he did not want his camera taken he had better put it away. He was picked off twice about his Kodak. Will did not take his out but borrowed one and ‘stole’ some snaps of the coaling of the ship. Yei went home early in the morning and while we were ashore we met Mrs. Wilson and Mrs. Nelis. They said they were going to Yei’s house but never asked any of us to come along. I wanted to make the babies picture but there is no show now.
The grafters are the worst ever. They start by asking four times what anything is worth, then coming down until you make your own terms. I bought a belt buckle for 50 sen that they first asked 2 yen50 for. We bought some cute little charms for 20 sen apiece, also two souvenir spoons at 50 sen apiece. Their goods are not as nice as those at Yokohama - much of it dirty and mussed. The Satsuma and other ware is beautiful. Some vases for 35 yen were dreams.
After tiffin we went up on the promenade deck and even here could not escape the grafters. Mrs. Wilson came home at noon with a lot of presents and a glowing report of Japanese hospitality. About four Yei came and brought her family consisting of mother, brother, wife and baby, sister, husband and her own niece. The babies are clean but so dark. Yei’s mother has her teeth blacked, a sign in former times of a married woman. The sister, Youi, is 18 years old, tall and slender for a Japanese girl. I would like to get her to look after my babies for me. Yei’s brother is especially cordial and it was fun to see how proud Yei is of her standing. She showed ‘Dodo’ off and asked her to kiss her cheek and then they all laughed. After Will refused to take out his camera to make the picture for Yei, Mrs. Wilson got very indignant and had Mr. Lee try to make a picture. It was so dark I am afraid he did not get much of a picture. Marcise brought home a dog but as they asked $10 to take it to Hong Kong Mrs. Wilson gave (?) it to the carpenter. Marcise cried all evening about it.
About five the boat started to get out before more than half of the coal heavers had gone ashore. They keep unloading coolies until we got up full speed. It was fun to see them scramble off into the sampans. The Captain has been criticized a good deal about the way he has run things. He is a German and will not be told anything. This is his first trip on the Pacific and although everyone respects his knowledge of navigation, yet they feel has not made a success of this trip. The 2nd Steward said he had made sixteen trips across the pond. Most of the crew has made several trips across before this one.
It was almost dark when we got started and the view of the town with all of its lights was very pretty. The nursemaid and I were together most of the afternoon. She is tired of her job. The family is going to Manila but she says she thinks she will try to get a place in Hong Kong with an English family.
October 20, 1905 ~ Friday
As soon as we got into the China Sea a wind came up and kicked up a terrible sea. I awoke about two o’clock and the boat was rocking horribly. We have all been so sick all day. We managed to eat a little but have stayed in bed all day. Mrs. Nelis was up on deck and came down to see how we were getting along. She dressed Dorothy and by that time was so sick she went to her room and stayed there the rest of the day. Then Mrs. Zimmer came and took the children up on deck but soon brought them back down again. Will tried to stay on deck but had to give up and go to bed like the rest of us.
Mrs. Zimmer says she never gets seasick and I envy her. She told me how the G.N. Co. did her. She bought her ticket in the east but found when she got to the ship that she had 3rd class accommodations. She thought the fare was awfully cheap and when she came on the Dakota and was assigned her room she understood what the trouble was. She tried to get to see Mr. King but the authorities would pay no attention to her. She is an Austrian and does not speak very good English so I suppose they thought she was an ignorant foreigner and treated her accordingly. This is the first ship she says where the Captain would not speak to her. Her home is in Bombay but she has been in America for the last year visiting. Her son-in-law is in government work in Bombay and she is someone at home so naturally she is very indignant at the way she has been treated.
Will can help her roast the Company to perfection. Everyone is sore at the way things have been going. Will has been sick for the last few days and went to the Chief Steward to see if he could get a can of oysters but was not very politely informed that those were for 1st Cabin passengers and they would neither give nor sell him any.
At Yokohama case after case of spoiled fruit went into the bay yet we were refused fruit all the way over from Seattle. Medley even picked off the 2nd Steward because he brought a plate of half spoiled oranges one evening down to us. The Chief Engineer who has the room next to ours brings fruit in for the babies quite frequently lately. This evening he stopped and asked Dorothy how she liked the storm and gave them both a peach. While they were eating them Old Mutt Medley stuck his nose in and I suppose was sore to see them with fruit. I can’t bear that man at all.
I felt so sorry for Dorothy. She kept saying “I did not ‘ant to com on a big ship. I ‘ant to ride on the cars.” I intended to pack up today and be all ready to go ashore tomorrow but ….
Will was going to finish a lot of pictures but …well he did not.
All we did was to wish we were in Shanghai.
October 21, 1905 ~ Saturday
I awoke at five bells this morning and as I supposed it was 5:30, I got up, dressed and began packing. After a while Will rapped on the wall and asked what I was doing. I looked to see what time it was and found it was just 3:15 a.m. Well, I went back to bed and to sleep and did not wake again until 7:00 o’clock.
The 3rd Steward told us to be ready to go ashore at 8:00 so we rushed around, got packed in short order, and all ready to go when we found that no launch would be here until ten o’clock.
It was about daylight when we anchored off Wooing bar, twelve miles from Shanghai. We had to wait until they could telephone for a launch to come out to meet us before anyone could go ashore. They have only one launch in and one out the day the ship sails so there will be no going ashore every day as in Japan. Our first view of the country is quite a surprise after Japan. It is perfectly level and flat, not a hill to be seen.
Will was so cross and disgusted this morning. Our breakfast was bum and after telling us to hurry we had to wait over three hours for the launch.
I gave Yei a silver dollar and one of the group pictures. She seemed very grateful. Also gave the cabin boy a Mex. Dollar. The purser kicked at the condition we left Will’s room but the boy said he would make all clean. The developer had stained the wash stand some.
We delivered a few pictures, collected a little money, got our ‘swag’ from the purser and were ready to go ashore about 8:30. Then we sat on deck and ‘cussed’ the administration until the launch finally arrived. The launch Victoria finally put in an appearance and the loading began. My trunk almost went overboard; we held our breath for a minute. The Victoria is so large she seems like a small steamer herself. The Captain and all the crew are Chinese.
About 10:45 we started for Shanghai. Nearly the whole passenger crew went ashore. It took almost an hour to run in and we almost froze. I had a frightful headache and everyone was cross and cranky. I was afraid all the way that Marcise would go overboard. She and Marjorie had to both cry on the way in.
It was almost exactly 12 noon when we set foot in the streets of Shanghai. We told everyone good-bye and went to the Astor House for Tiffin. We found afterwards that this is the most expensive hotel in the city. Tiffin cost us $3.75 Mex. For the four of us and tasted so good after so much ship’s grub. On the way up from the pier we were besieged with rickshaw men, grafters of all descriptions including a newsboy. It is funny to see so many queues and queerly dressed people. We expected to find warm weather and are dressed accordingly so almost froze. It is awfully cold and I was finding this is the condition of Shanghai during this time of the year.
After Tiffin we went over to the China Photo Supply House and met Mr. and Mrs. LeMunyou. Will started right to work and in a little while Mrs. LeMunyou took us up to her house No. 7 Chapoo Road where she left us and went back to the store. The boy brought us hot water and we had a good wash. Then he brought us tea, toast, Nabisco wafers and bananas so we had quite a feast. I am hungry all the time and everything tastes so good on shore.
The babies both went to sleep and I rested for a while and then put on my coat and went out on the porch upstairs to watch what was happening below. A dirty old beggar came and bowed and bowed at me but my heart would not pity him. All sorts of venders came calling their wares. Some of the most beautiful chrysanthemums I ever say were offered for sale. The venders all carry two baskets on a piece of bamboo such as the Chinese market gardeners at home use for carrying vegetables.
We see so many new and interesting things here but I do not like it as well as Japan. The coolies and in fact everyone looks dirty and greasy and are not as picturesque as the Japanese.
At six o’clock the folks came home from the store. The two boys, Rudolph and Herman, and Mr. Corson both board and room with LeMunyou so there was eight of us for dinner. The babies had their dinner upstairs by themselves and had a fine time being waited on.
Mr. LeMunyou is inclined to brag a good deal about himself I think. He talked a long time about his affairs but some way I do not like him so very well. He does not ring true some way or the other. He said they had been married 18 years come February and had lost a boy and never had any other children. Mrs. LeMunyou is an odd looking woman – she is very dark, with black hair and the most peculiar eyes I ever saw. I think they are grey but I am not sure. She is not at all pretty but seems very good hearted and is spoiling the babies as fast as she can. She persuaded us to stay overnight and as they have the house full with the two boys had to go to hotel for the night. We had the most comfortable nights’ sleep for a long time. Will is like a big baby, he likes to be petted and loved so well. I fell in love with the grate in the bedroom and I do hope our house will have one.
They have not got the house furnished very well but as Mrs. LeMunyou says she does not keep house but turns everything over to the boys as she is at the store all day.
After dinner we were so tired that we went to bed pretty shortly. I hardly know what to make of Mrs. L. She acted scared some way and when she said good night said “May I kiss you goodnight?” Will says he is so thankful that we have arrived and he can get to work and to earning something again. I am anxious to know just what is going to be our lot in this far away country. The babies are much delighted with things so far and I am very well pleased. We will soon get used to ‘pigtails’ doing our work I presume. I never thought I could eat a Chinese man’s cooking but I can now and call it good too.
As soon as we got into the China Sea a wind came up and kicked up a terrible sea. I awoke about two o’clock and the boat was rocking horribly. We have all been so sick all day. We managed to eat a little but have stayed in bed all day. Mrs. Nelis was up on deck and came down to see how we were getting along. She dressed Dorothy and by that time was so sick she went to her room and stayed there the rest of the day. Then Mrs. Zimmer came and took the children up on deck but soon brought them back down again. Will tried to stay on deck but had to give up and go to bed like the rest of us.
Mrs. Zimmer says she never gets seasick and I envy her. She told me how the G.N. Co. did her. She bought her ticket in the east but found when she got to the ship that she had 3rd class accommodations. She thought the fare was awfully cheap and when she came on the Dakota and was assigned her room she understood what the trouble was. She tried to get to see Mr. King but the authorities would pay no attention to her. She is an Austrian and does not speak very good English so I suppose they thought she was an ignorant foreigner and treated her accordingly. This is the first ship she says where the Captain would not speak to her. Her home is in Bombay but she has been in America for the last year visiting. Her son-in-law is in government work in Bombay and she is someone at home so naturally she is very indignant at the way she has been treated.
Will can help her roast the Company to perfection. Everyone is sore at the way things have been going. Will has been sick for the last few days and went to the Chief Steward to see if he could get a can of oysters but was not very politely informed that those were for 1st Cabin passengers and they would neither give nor sell him any.
At Yokohama case after case of spoiled fruit went into the bay yet we were refused fruit all the way over from Seattle. Medley even picked off the 2nd Steward because he brought a plate of half spoiled oranges one evening down to us. The Chief Engineer who has the room next to ours brings fruit in for the babies quite frequently lately. This evening he stopped and asked Dorothy how she liked the storm and gave them both a peach. While they were eating them Old Mutt Medley stuck his nose in and I suppose was sore to see them with fruit. I can’t bear that man at all.
I felt so sorry for Dorothy. She kept saying “I did not ‘ant to com on a big ship. I ‘ant to ride on the cars.” I intended to pack up today and be all ready to go ashore tomorrow but ….
Will was going to finish a lot of pictures but …well he did not.
All we did was to wish we were in Shanghai.
October 21, 1905 ~ Saturday
I awoke at five bells this morning and as I supposed it was 5:30, I got up, dressed and began packing. After a while Will rapped on the wall and asked what I was doing. I looked to see what time it was and found it was just 3:15 a.m. Well, I went back to bed and to sleep and did not wake again until 7:00 o’clock.
The 3rd Steward told us to be ready to go ashore at 8:00 so we rushed around, got packed in short order, and all ready to go when we found that no launch would be here until ten o’clock.
It was about daylight when we anchored off Wooing bar, twelve miles from Shanghai. We had to wait until they could telephone for a launch to come out to meet us before anyone could go ashore. They have only one launch in and one out the day the ship sails so there will be no going ashore every day as in Japan. Our first view of the country is quite a surprise after Japan. It is perfectly level and flat, not a hill to be seen.
Will was so cross and disgusted this morning. Our breakfast was bum and after telling us to hurry we had to wait over three hours for the launch.
I gave Yei a silver dollar and one of the group pictures. She seemed very grateful. Also gave the cabin boy a Mex. Dollar. The purser kicked at the condition we left Will’s room but the boy said he would make all clean. The developer had stained the wash stand some.
We delivered a few pictures, collected a little money, got our ‘swag’ from the purser and were ready to go ashore about 8:30. Then we sat on deck and ‘cussed’ the administration until the launch finally arrived. The launch Victoria finally put in an appearance and the loading began. My trunk almost went overboard; we held our breath for a minute. The Victoria is so large she seems like a small steamer herself. The Captain and all the crew are Chinese.
About 10:45 we started for Shanghai. Nearly the whole passenger crew went ashore. It took almost an hour to run in and we almost froze. I had a frightful headache and everyone was cross and cranky. I was afraid all the way that Marcise would go overboard. She and Marjorie had to both cry on the way in.
It was almost exactly 12 noon when we set foot in the streets of Shanghai. We told everyone good-bye and went to the Astor House for Tiffin. We found afterwards that this is the most expensive hotel in the city. Tiffin cost us $3.75 Mex. For the four of us and tasted so good after so much ship’s grub. On the way up from the pier we were besieged with rickshaw men, grafters of all descriptions including a newsboy. It is funny to see so many queues and queerly dressed people. We expected to find warm weather and are dressed accordingly so almost froze. It is awfully cold and I was finding this is the condition of Shanghai during this time of the year.
After Tiffin we went over to the China Photo Supply House and met Mr. and Mrs. LeMunyou. Will started right to work and in a little while Mrs. LeMunyou took us up to her house No. 7 Chapoo Road where she left us and went back to the store. The boy brought us hot water and we had a good wash. Then he brought us tea, toast, Nabisco wafers and bananas so we had quite a feast. I am hungry all the time and everything tastes so good on shore.
The babies both went to sleep and I rested for a while and then put on my coat and went out on the porch upstairs to watch what was happening below. A dirty old beggar came and bowed and bowed at me but my heart would not pity him. All sorts of venders came calling their wares. Some of the most beautiful chrysanthemums I ever say were offered for sale. The venders all carry two baskets on a piece of bamboo such as the Chinese market gardeners at home use for carrying vegetables.
We see so many new and interesting things here but I do not like it as well as Japan. The coolies and in fact everyone looks dirty and greasy and are not as picturesque as the Japanese.
At six o’clock the folks came home from the store. The two boys, Rudolph and Herman, and Mr. Corson both board and room with LeMunyou so there was eight of us for dinner. The babies had their dinner upstairs by themselves and had a fine time being waited on.
Mr. LeMunyou is inclined to brag a good deal about himself I think. He talked a long time about his affairs but some way I do not like him so very well. He does not ring true some way or the other. He said they had been married 18 years come February and had lost a boy and never had any other children. Mrs. LeMunyou is an odd looking woman – she is very dark, with black hair and the most peculiar eyes I ever saw. I think they are grey but I am not sure. She is not at all pretty but seems very good hearted and is spoiling the babies as fast as she can. She persuaded us to stay overnight and as they have the house full with the two boys had to go to hotel for the night. We had the most comfortable nights’ sleep for a long time. Will is like a big baby, he likes to be petted and loved so well. I fell in love with the grate in the bedroom and I do hope our house will have one.
They have not got the house furnished very well but as Mrs. LeMunyou says she does not keep house but turns everything over to the boys as she is at the store all day.
After dinner we were so tired that we went to bed pretty shortly. I hardly know what to make of Mrs. L. She acted scared some way and when she said good night said “May I kiss you goodnight?” Will says he is so thankful that we have arrived and he can get to work and to earning something again. I am anxious to know just what is going to be our lot in this far away country. The babies are much delighted with things so far and I am very well pleased. We will soon get used to ‘pigtails’ doing our work I presume. I never thought I could eat a Chinese man’s cooking but I can now and call it good too.
October 22, 1905 ~ Sunday
We stayed at the LeMunyou’s all day and until after dinner when we went to the Hotel Metropole. Will and Mr. LeMunyou went to the shop just after breakfast and came home in time for Tiffin. Mrs. L, the babies and I had the house to ourselves. She started to crochet a wool shawl and we wound the yarn for her. They expect to go to the Astor to board the first of the month so she spent part of the morning packing. She showed me the loveliest piece of gold embroidery, a piece of Chinese loot taken during the Boxer trouble. It is a priest’s robe and is embroidered in real gold in dragon design and will make a lovely opera cape. It is awfully heavy. She told me that she had two trunks full in Hong Kong but she went home and when she came back this was all she had left. They failed in Hong Kong and everything went to satisfy the creditors. This piece she had in her own trunk and so it was missed.
I am puzzled with her more than ever today. At Tiffin time she went out and never came back until the men had gone away again. Never made any explanations, apologies or anything. He drinks a good deal I think for he had whiskey at every meal. She drank beer also. I was glad that Will refused when it was offered to him.
In the evening we went down to the Municipal Gardens. This is a very extensive park and is pretty even in October. Lots of people were there. It seems to be a general loafing place for Europeans. Then we took rickshaws and rode around a while, then back home.
The men folks were home by this time and had come at four with a carriage to take us to the hotel but failed to find us. After dinner we went to the hotel in a carriage driven by a Chinese driver. It was very comfortable and Will said “I would like to meet some of those Dakota snobs now.” It took about half an hour to drive to the hotel and we went directly to our rooms and it was not very long before we were ready for rest.
We are in China now so I will close this book hoping that in after years as I read it over it will bring up many pleasant recollections of my first ocean voyage. I have omitted many things that will come to mind later. We are glad that our journey is over. We have met several pleasant people and make I think, a few friends. What the future has in store for us we will find out each day as the day comes. Just now we are happy to think we are here safe and sound and are hoping that all will go well with us. Whatever happens we will try to meet it in the right spirit and will do the best we can to do, what is right.
***This is the end of the first section of the diary. There is a missing section that covers the next portion of the China adventures – from October 23, 1905 until January 1, 1907 when the larger diary starts.
We stayed at the LeMunyou’s all day and until after dinner when we went to the Hotel Metropole. Will and Mr. LeMunyou went to the shop just after breakfast and came home in time for Tiffin. Mrs. L, the babies and I had the house to ourselves. She started to crochet a wool shawl and we wound the yarn for her. They expect to go to the Astor to board the first of the month so she spent part of the morning packing. She showed me the loveliest piece of gold embroidery, a piece of Chinese loot taken during the Boxer trouble. It is a priest’s robe and is embroidered in real gold in dragon design and will make a lovely opera cape. It is awfully heavy. She told me that she had two trunks full in Hong Kong but she went home and when she came back this was all she had left. They failed in Hong Kong and everything went to satisfy the creditors. This piece she had in her own trunk and so it was missed.
I am puzzled with her more than ever today. At Tiffin time she went out and never came back until the men had gone away again. Never made any explanations, apologies or anything. He drinks a good deal I think for he had whiskey at every meal. She drank beer also. I was glad that Will refused when it was offered to him.
In the evening we went down to the Municipal Gardens. This is a very extensive park and is pretty even in October. Lots of people were there. It seems to be a general loafing place for Europeans. Then we took rickshaws and rode around a while, then back home.
The men folks were home by this time and had come at four with a carriage to take us to the hotel but failed to find us. After dinner we went to the hotel in a carriage driven by a Chinese driver. It was very comfortable and Will said “I would like to meet some of those Dakota snobs now.” It took about half an hour to drive to the hotel and we went directly to our rooms and it was not very long before we were ready for rest.
We are in China now so I will close this book hoping that in after years as I read it over it will bring up many pleasant recollections of my first ocean voyage. I have omitted many things that will come to mind later. We are glad that our journey is over. We have met several pleasant people and make I think, a few friends. What the future has in store for us we will find out each day as the day comes. Just now we are happy to think we are here safe and sound and are hoping that all will go well with us. Whatever happens we will try to meet it in the right spirit and will do the best we can to do, what is right.
***This is the end of the first section of the diary. There is a missing section that covers the next portion of the China adventures – from October 23, 1905 until January 1, 1907 when the larger diary starts.
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