Sections of the diary:

7 ~ Japan...land at last!

October 5, 1905 - Thursday
Sailing ship - Sea of Japan
Land in sight! Everyone is excited and field glasses are at a premium. There was not much to be seen, then we went on deck this morning but it was not very long before the rugged coast of Japan came into sight. The coast is so rough and islands seem to rise straight out of the sea. We saw lighthouses all along the coast and little patches of green - evidently cultivated ground could be seen on the hillsides. About ten o'clock we saw our first sampan. These were fishing boats apparently. They were some distance from the ship and seemed to be long canoe shaped boats fitted with sails. They were in groups and the men looked like dolls moving around.

Will and I were printing pictures and could not stay on deck long at a time so missed some of the sights. Today I tasted grapefruit for the first time. They are much like oranges but more sour. We all liked them very much. The meals are better today, looks as if they were trying to make us forget the meals we have been having the last week.

After Tiffin, we quit working and went up on deck to see all there was to be seen. Everyone got so excited over each new thing that came in sight. We soon meet literally hundreds of fishing boats but did not pass any other boats on our way in. As we got closer we could see the little houses and garden patches scattered along the coast. Not a foot of land is wasted but is all used for something. We saw several buildings, evidently temples judging from their structure, also passed a wireless telegraph station. Smoke from steamers were seen but none came within hailing distance.

Soon we reached Tokio Bay and our boat began whistling for a pilot. The bay is heavily mined and it is not safe for any ship to try and get in without a pilot to show the passage through. It was about 4:30 when the pilot boat appeared and about 5:00 we dropped anchor. Immediately a swarm of little brown men were aboard with all sorts of guides to Japan, cards and advertising folders. Every launch in the bay seemed to be out to meet us. I never saw so many boats. Each of the leading hotels have a launch that meets all incoming steamers.

The medical examining board came aboard and we were mustered in the dining room to pass quarantine. The examination was not very strict - noses are counted and the ship surgeon's word is taken that we are all in good health. Miss Anderson can hardly keep up at all but she was not examined any more than the rest of us. AhTow was counting us all and getting us into the dining room and seemed the responsible man of the hour.
After the medical examinations we went up on the promenade deck to see the sights. The lower deck was simply thronged.

The commissioners went directly to Tokio in the government launch. As they got clear of the ship a torpedo boat going at full speed struck the launch and knocked a man overboard. Many think this was not an accident but a deliberate attack on the commissioners. It was reported that the feeling concerning the treaty is not at all favorable towards its farmers. The man was fished out of the bay with a boat hook. It is so warm that I imagine he will suffer no bad effects from his involuntary bath. The launch was not injured and proceeded on its way to Tokio. A great many people went ashore. It was fun to watch some of the people get into the sampans. They would throw their luggage in, then wait for a favorable opportunity and make a jump and land on their feet or their knees or sprawled out in the bottom of the boat. We are still outside of the breakwater and it is pretty rough.

The bay is full of boats, mostly launches and sampans. It soon got dark and we had to go below, tired but happy to think we are in sunny Japan at last. Will says "Am I really here or am I dreaming?" It is hard to realize that we are so far from home. We spent the whole evening writing letters and postcards. Will and I quarreled over the fountain pen so Dr. Cole loaned me his. The Minnesota is still here and will take mail home for us. We have sold a good many souvenir postals. Some of the boys from the Minnesota came out to see us. It was eleven o'clock when we got through writing and I was so nervous and excited I could not sleep for a long time.

The carpenter was one of the first men to come back from shore and he had some great tales to tell. He had ridden in a rickshaw, sampled a Japanese meal and done everything else he could in the short time he was ashore. I am anxious to go to see for myself. Will can hardly wait for morning. Letters cost 10 sen or 5 cents, postals 2 cents. Japanese policemen are on the boat. They ate dinner with us this evening. The steward gave us keys and told us to keep our staterooms locked.

Not any of our people went ashore tonight but all are anxious for tomorrow to come. Mrs. Wilson has been here before so she does not get so excited as the rest of us. The cutest little boy talked to us upon deck this afternoon. He was about five years old and had the cutest way of saying 'perhaps'. His father is a missionary and the family is going to Japan.

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